DE BORTOLI SAUVIGNON 2007

 - Yarra Valley, VIC

 - $26-$34

 - Screwcap

 - 12.0%alc

I wouldn't normally recommend two and a half year old Australian sauvignon blanc to anyone, with the main exception being some of our better wooded styles. De Bortoli's 2007 Sauvignon is certainly one I would recommend, which clearly states the complex developed characters attainable through short term cellaring for wooded sauvignon blanc.

Very toasty/nutty on the nose, with pronounced straw, lemon and mineral aromas backed by a suggestion of brine, its compelling fragrance leads into a smooth, rich and savoury palate of restrained fruit character. Finishing with penetrative length and zesty acids, it leaves lasting impressions of briney/salty/seaweed and smoky notes in an almost Islay Malt-like fashion. Complexity and idiosyncrasy define its unique flavour; whether it's derived more through winemaker, bottle age or perhaps other influences I'm unsure, but it's complemented by enough texture, length and acidity to genuinely enthrall the palate.

ü+ A highly original sauvignon blanc unique to the Australian scene. I strongly recommend this to brave, adventurous drinkers, but consume within 12 months (just to be on the safe side). Drink to 2010.

93 points

www.debortoli.com.au

A SIMPLE SEAFOOD LUNCH PLATTER FOR 2

It's been a while since I put anything food related (or anything other than wine reviews) on this site, so here's a brief overview of a simple seafood platter I put together for Beck's recent birthday. It's very easy to make, requiring very little preparation or professional technique. It's just a shame about the cost price!

Wines for the day were two of Beck's favourites; the Non-Vintage Jansz and Bridgewater Mill's 2004 Chardonnay. I would've preferred the Jansz Rose with a Heggies or Freycinet Riesling but hey, it wasn't my birthday!

1a. Oysters Natural 

(Already consumed in picture) Served with lime and pepper.

1b. Oysters Natural

Served with a slither of avocado, minced tomato, lime, cracked pepper and fresh coriander.

1c. Oysters Cooked 

Cooked with sweet chilli sauce, grated mozzarella and spring onion.

1d. Oysters Kilpatrick

Cooked with bacon and worcestershire sauce.

2a. Salmon Steak

Cubed salmon steak, lightly seared on two sides and complemented by salt and pepper with soy dipping sauce.

2b. Smoked Salmon

Served on fresh baguette bread with cream cheese.

3. Australian Banana Prawns

Marinated in garlic, butter, salt, pepper and chives, then pan-fried.

4. Blue Swimmer Crab Meat Vol au Vents

Crab meat vol au vents with chilli basil rose sauce, garnished with lemon/lime and chives, then lightly baked

So there you have it; a light seafood platter so simple to prepare even I can do it! I just wish it wasn't so darn expensive!

CHANDON ZD VINTAGE BLANC DE BLANCS 2005

 - Southern Victoria/Tasmania

 - $29-$43

 - Crown Seal

 - 12.5%alc

One of Chandon's most interesting wines is the ZD Blanc de Blancs. FYI, blanc de blancs refers to a wine made entirely from chardonnay grapes, while ZD refers to zero dosage. Zero dosage means the wine was made without the addition of a sweetener or liqueur (dosage), which results in a very dry style of sparkling wine.

Typical of Chandon, the 2005 ZD Blanc de Blancs is a visual delight; revealing plentiful, extremely fine and racy bead topped off by a foamy head. Lively notes of lemon, nectarine, grapefruit and soft bread with underlying quirky (oyster-shell?) complexities announce the aroma, leading into a very crisp, astoundingly dry and shapely palate with an austere, steely finish. There's wonderful purity and tightness to its white fruit/lemon flavour, which is accentuated by slightly sour citric acids and a dry, defining effervescence which wipes out everything in sight, leaving a lasting impression of adults-only refreshment.

ü+ Rounding out a great year for Chandon's vintage sparkling whites, the 2005 ZD Blanc de Blancs is a seriously dry sparkling wine of splendid balance and focus. Drink to 2012.

94 points

www.chandon.com.au

HENSCHKE KEYNETON ESTATE EUPHONIUM 2006

(Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot)

 - Eden Valley/Barossa Valley, SA

 - $30-$53

 - Screwcap

 - 14.5%alc

Henschke is a historically significant, family owned producer with an enviable reputation and a very loyal following. For my tastes their most consistent recent performers have been the Louis Semillon, Julius Riesling, Mount Edelstone Shiraz and the Keyneton Estate Euphonium.

The 2006 Keyneton Estate opens to glorious scents of pepper, cassis, plums and spicy cedar/vanilla oak with a controlled whiff of eucalyptus. Smooth and plush on entry, a fine extract of grainy, grippy tannins coat its medium-full bodied dark plum, blackberry, cedar and herb flavours, finishing with intensifying leafy/dusty tones cleverly imparted by its cabernet franc component. Its approachable, quite frankly delicious palate contains the complementary balance of varietals which has blessed all recent Euphoniums.

ü+ This is what I call a clever Aussie blend; it eloquently displays shiraz flavour, cabernet sauvignon structure, merlot plushness and cabernet franc lasting impression. It's narrowly the best Keyneton Estate since 2002 (95pts). Drink to 2021.

93 points

www.henschke.com.au

TYRRELL'S SINGLE VINEYARD STEVENS SEMILLON 2004

 - Lower Hunter Valley, NSW

 - $20-$33

 - Screwcap

 - 11.0%alc

Tyrrell's produce Australia's most prized collection of semillon. Their range begins with the very affordable Old Winery and Lost Block labels, peaks at the top with the mighty Vat 1, and also incorporates a range of superb single vineyard selections. The introduction of screwcaps across the entire range is only going to improve the standing of these already proud Australian wines.

A distinctly young looking clear/pale straw colour, the 2004 Stevens presents an even perfume representative of both youthful freshness and clean development. Its bright lemon/lime citrus and straw aromas are backed by a flinty edge, with just a hint of honeyed sweetness showing through. Mineral accented and very refreshing, the squeaky palate delivers its lemon and melon flavours with precision and clarity, finishing tight and dry with toasty undertones, pungent rubbery qualities and chalky grapefruit-like acids.

ü+ Having developed evenly and relatively slowly across the last 5 years, this $25 semillon should be a great buy for your cellar. Thanks to its screwcap I can say that with confidence. Drink to 2018.

93 points

www.tyrrells.com.au

YALUMBA Y-SERIES VIOGNIER 2008

 - South Australia

 - $6-$14

 - Screwcap

 - 14.5%alc

Yalumba is Australia's leading practitioner of viognier. I've often found their entry level Y-Series Viognier a little too tart and flabby for my tastes, but the 2008 obviously impressed the tasting panel of the Adelaide Review Hot 100 (chaired by a certain A. Jefford), who included it in the top half of their 100 selections.

Opening to an attractively varietal nose devoid of overt pungency, its peach fuzz and apricot pastry aromas also reveal notes of tangerine and spirit. Its smooth and creamy palate enters with fullness and surprising sophistication, announcing apricot, orange citrus and mineral flavours with just a trace of phenolic acids evident at the finish.

ü For a $7 white this is incredibly luscious in both flavour and texture, but I think it should be drunk young to retain necessary freshness. Oh yeah, the new label works well for me too. Value plus. Drink to 2010.

88 points

www.yalumba.com.au

ANGOVE LONG ROW SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

 - South Australia

 - $4-$12

 - Screwcap

 - 11.5%alc

Riverland based Angove may be best known for an extremely popular, sweetish-pink rose (Nine Vines), but I also find their Long Row wines offer pretty sound drinking for under $10.

This lightly scented sauvignon blanc reveals thin aromas of tinned pineapples, gooseberry and citrus, with a fairly uncomplicated yet rather juicy, generous palate. It's not hugely varietal or defined but it does show genuine texture and balance to its granny smith apple flavour, accompanied by a brisk, refreshing finish punctuated by lemony/citric acids.

ü The 2009 Long Row is a pretty darn good, cleanly balanced generic white for $5 really. Keep your expectations low and this simple savvy might really surprise you. Drink to 2010.

86 points

www.angove.com.au

DE BORTOLI GULF STATION PINOT NOIR 2008

 - Yarra Valley, VIC

 - $14-$22

 - Screwcap

 - 13.5%alc

To complement their 2008 Windy Peak Pinot Noir (88pts), which stands virtually unopposed as Australia's best $10 pinot, De Bortoli also released a delicious Gulf Station Pinot Noir from 2008, which might just be Australia's best $20 pinot.

Laden with perfumed aromas of cherries, forest fruits and cinnamon, its fruit forward and sweet vanilla oak scented nose precedes a genuinely varietal palate framed by sour edged acidity. Its supple cherry and sour plum flavours develop into a lightly spiced finish, accompanied by undertones of clove-like oak residing beneath a soft wave of prickly tannin.

ü+ Give this an hour in the decanter and you'll have one of the best $15 pinots you could fathom. Let's just say I can't wait for the release of De Bortoli's premier 2008 pinots. Drink to 2012.

90 points

www.debortoli.com.au

SAMUEL'S GORGE RELBIA RIESLING 2009

 - Tamar Valley, TAS

 - $25

 - Screwcap (Stelvin-Lux)

 - 11.9%alc

If you're visiting McLaren Vale in search of some memorable white wine, I'd strongly recommend calling in to Samuel's Gorge, whose current releases of riesling and gewurztraminer are arguably the region's best. However, the great irony is that both wines originate from Tasmania!

The first vintage of Justin McNamee's Relbia Riesling opens to lightly floral aromas of musky grapefruits and lavender, working harmoniously throughout its very clean, restrained fruit profile. Spotlessly pristine, its crystal-clear palate presents an utterly convincing expression of mineral accented pure fruit flavour, which extends along a chalky undercarriage towards a long, taut, savoury and briney finish bound by slick, racy acids. It's a total package for Tasmanian riesling enthusiasts of extremely addictive proportions.

ü+ A very complete, seamlessly balanced Tasmanian riesling of exquisite clarity and freshness. Drink to 2019.

94 points

www.gorge.com.au

ST HALLETT GAMEKEEPER'S SHIRAZ GRENACHE 2008

 - Barossa Valley, SA

 - $10-$18

 - Screwcap

 - 13.5%alc

Soft, fruit forward, lightly oaked (if at all) and lighter-bodied red wines made for immediate consumption and consumer enjoyment are gaining prominence in Australia. This trend makes perfect sense in places like the Barossa and McLaren Vale, where their abundant sunshine and plentiful plantings of the grenache grape suit the easy drinking, summer red style to a tee.

Brightly scented with stewed plums, blueberries and raspberries, St Hallett's 2008 Gameskeeper's blend also reveals a sweet influence of chocolate and coconut. As anticipated it's a lighter, softer style of Barossa red, with a finish drawn out more by its marked acidity as opposed to penetrating length of fruit or structure. There remains a vivid base of ultra-ripe, sweet/sour edged regional fruits, so it should sit well with those who seek its style.

O This is a pleasingly balanced little quaffer which successfully achieves its goals. It suits outdoor dining, with, as the bottle suggests, game, duck, smoked meats and hare. Drink to 2010.

86 points

www.sthallett.com.au